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You’re probably not surprised to hear I’m a fan of a weekend trip to a European city break big hitter — this year alone I’ve been to Paris, Copenhagen and Amsterdam and am hoping to fit in a jaunt to Rome in early Autumn.
That’s why it’s really refreshing to visit somewhere not on many people’s radar. Step in Tallinn.
I must admit, I may not have visited had my friend not moved back home there, but after my recent visit (my fourth) it’s been cemented as my top European city break destination recommendation.
It’s got it all — charming cobbled streets lined with pastel buildings in the Old Town, a waterside with buzzing beach bars and hip regenerated former industrial areas brimming full with excellent food and drink venues. These, combined with a relatively compact city centre and easy transportation links (despite the fact they’ve stopped running the direct flight from Edinburgh which hopefully will reinstated soon) make for an excellent place for a weekend trip. Here are my recs:
Eat
A large taproom and bar housed in a working brewery in the waterfront Noblessner neighbourhood. As well as 20+ beers on tap, they serve up an excellent range of American BBQ dishes, with occasional food pop-ups and outside grills too.
A lovely little Scandinavian-influenced bakery, with perfect cinnamon buns baked right before your eyes.
This organic shop and cafe is nestled in the heart of woody residential neighbourhood, Kadriorg. They have a lovely outside space which is a great spot to grab breakfast or lunch in the shade of the oak trees on a hot summer’s day — think daily changing salads and fresh vegetable-forward dishes.
A gorgeous Art Nouveau villa in the Nõmme district that’s serving up beautiful Michelin-recommended dining. A more high-end option, but worth it for the unique setting.
Now, don’t get me wrong, I love the buns at Røst (mentioned above), but I think my favourite bakery in town might just have to be Pulla. While the exterior is unassuming, the kind I wouldn’t think twice about walking past, especially considering its proximity to the centre of the Old Town, the buns here are impossibly fluffy and well worth seeking out.
This new-age winery is brewing up some really interesting fruit wines (the non-alcoholic rhubarb sparkling wine is my personal favourite). Head to their bar in the Telliskivi quarter for their full range served alongside Punch Club Artisan drinks.
The best rooftop bar and restaurant with views of the Old Town. I’ve not properly eaten here before (besides grabbing a quick pastry for breakfast) but they’ve been awarded a Michelin Green Star so it’s on my list to check out on my next visit.
An very popular Estonian ice creamery with a wide range of flavours on offer. Try the charcoal and white chocolate if you see it!
A bakery by day and super cool restaurant in the evening serving up seasonal dishes and an excellent natural wine list. The interiors are so gorgeous here — the place to be seen come dinner time for those in the know.
Stay
As I’ve always been lucky to have a friend in town I can stay with, I’m handing over to that very friend, KK Land, for her expert local recommendations for the best places to stay —
Small but perfectly formed huts right on the waterside, each with its own private terrace to enjoy the sea views. More on the surrounding Iglupark in the ‘Do’ section below.
A well-located Old Town hotel with impressive spa facilities.
Located in the Telliskivi district (alongside Fotografiska, La Muu and Nudist Winery, mentioned above), this apart-hotel has a wide array of room types and sizes available to fit any length of stay and party size.
A variety of different apartment available to hire on airbnb from the same host — each one beautifully thought out and designed.
Do
Sauna in the city Iglu Park
Estonians are known for their sauna culture. Practically every house in the country, no matter the size, will have a sauna squeezed in so it’s no surprise you can find somewhere to partake in the culture right in the city. My pick? On the waterfront at Noblessner you can book out an Iglu Sauna, complete with Aperol spritzes delivered to your hut. For the brave, there’s a cold dip in the Baltic Sea after!
Wander round the UNESCO World Heritage Old Town
Get lost in the winding cobbled streets leading up to the city’s Old Town and explore the fortified city walls. Plenty to enjoy for history buffs and lovers of a pretty building alike!
Explore outside the city centre
You’ll find the city’s relatively few tourists in the Old Town, but there’s plenty more to explore in the city beyond the centre. Estonia is the home of transport technology company, Bolt, so there’s no problem in picking up a taxi, bike or scooter to zoom out to other areas for cheap. You’ll see in my recommendations I’ve noted where each spot is by my favourite areas are the Telliskivi, Noblessner and Rotermann districts. Haabneeme Beach is also an excellent spot on a sunny day (grab a bite to eat and spritz from OKO while you’re there too).
That’s all for this week’s destination guide! With the Edinburgh Fringe Festival nearly upon us, look out for my food and show highlights coming soon to Substack.
saved! what a fantastic guide — tallin has really appealed since my friend went with work and raved about it